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| Thai-Ger Line Golf Tournament Pattaya |
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Selecting and preparing the components you want to use:Shafts First of all we determine and mark the spine of each shaft. This is the side where the shaft is most flexible and will swing forward and backward on a straight line. If the shaft is later glued into the head, this neutral position has to point forward, directly in hitting direction.
In the next step we frequency analyze all shafts we use, to determine the stiffness of each of them is the same. This number, which indicates the cycles per minute (CPM), is written down on the butt end of the raw shaft. Make sure you analyze the shaft in neutral position. Should there be variations in stiffness I prefer to use the more flexible ones on my long irons and get stiffer on the shorter clubs. In a perfect set the stiffness increases by 3 CPM per club from 3 to 9. Club heads Club heads in a proper set of irons should get 7 grams lighter each head from 3 to SW (See chart 1).
So we can look on the heavy end for players that like a bit more feel or a set of lightweights for ladies (See chart 2). Also quickly check loft and lie of your heads. If the lie angle is is not accurate you will not be able to cut the club to proper length. Grips Check the weight of your grips. As 1 gram head weight equals 2 grams grip weight you might be able to balance a head that is a bit light with a heavier grip and vice versa. Using no name grips, you should also make sure grips are the same length.
Just take as many as your set will require. Preparing and assembling the components: Shaft tip trimming Many shafts require to be tip cut before assembling. Google for "shaft tip trimming" and then look for the type of shafts you bought. For most steel shafts you do not have to trim for your #1 iron and then add ½ inch each club down to #9. PW and SW are usually the same as the 9 iron. Tip preparation To ensure a good epoxy bond between shafts and heads, shafts require tip prepping. Steel shafts have to be roughened and graphite's need the paint to be removed.
To do this you can just take a small strip of sand paper or carefully use a beltsander for steal shafts. Using the beltsander for graphite shafts takes a bit of practice or the use of a special shaft prepping belt. Installing the ferule
Push the smaller diameter end of the ferule on to the tip of your shaft and press this combo against a wall. Then take the intended club head and push it down until the tip of the shaft hit the end of the blind bore inside the hosel. Make sure that you still can see your FLO marker. Glue shaft into headapply a thin layer of club making epoxy from shaft tip to ferrule and also inside the hosel. Note: The most common mistake and cause of graphite shaft breakage is too much glue that rises inside the shaft above the edge of the hosel where the shaft then loses its flexibility. Wipe off excessive glue, reassure that your FLO markers are in place and let the epoxy cure. Cutting shafts to lengthUse a long ruler or a club makers cutting board. The shafts have to be cut down to playing length. That means that the head should rest on the floor with its leading edge parallel to it.
Now place the ruler behind the shaft that the club rests on top of it.
Mark the required spot with a thin line. (Standard shaft length in Chart 3). To avoid a disaster lean all the clubs in playing condition against a wall before you start cutting them. This is your last chance to make sure your length pattern is right. For steel shafts use a pipe cutter, for graphite a metal saw.
Check the swing weight Check each club for the swing weight which for a standard men's club should be between C8 and D2. Add either lead tape or lead powder until all clubs are exactly the same as your highest reading. For a standard set of irons one swingweight point equals about 2 grams (chart 4)
Step back to make sure the writing on the grip cap is horizontal and the markers on top are where they should be. Take a second grip and compare the length as you want all grips the same. If your standard grip feels too fat, pull it down the shaft about ½ an inch right now and hold it for a moment. This will decrease the size a bit. Should your shafts come with a sticker, it's now the time to put them on about one inch underneath the grip end.Turn down ferules Use a small stripe of fine sand paper and carefully sand down the edge between ferule and hosel. Or use your belt sander with a linen belt to turn it down. A piece of tissue dipped in acetone will later give the ferrule that luster shine back. |
